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Unidentified lady, early 17th century (watercolour, gum arabic, vellum, gilt)

Unidentified lady, early 17th century (watercolour, gum arabic, vellum, gilt)


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Unidentified lady, early 17th century (watercolour, gum arabic, vellum, gilt)

7340109 Unidentified lady, early 17th century (watercolour, gum arabic, vellum, gilt) by Oliver, Isaac (c.1565-1617); 5.1x4.3 cm; National Maritime Museum, London, UK; (add.info.: Creator: Isaac Oliver
An oval miniature in watercolour on vellum, in a gilt surround set in an oval black wooden mount, possibly ebony, with incised foliate and floral decoration. The sitter is either a late 16th or early 17th century lady of high social status, probably no younger than about thirty. Allowing for some oxidation her short curled hair appears to be a light red, (possibly coloured), and her eyes hazel, which would be unusual for a natural red-head. She is shown bust-length turned slightly to her left but looking out to the viewer with a slight smile and she has a somewhat aquiline nose. She wears an elaborately embroidered gown predominantly in black and silver in a floral pattern, and an elaborate starched lace ruff and cap, with jewels in her cap and curled hair, and a deep necklace. Allowing for some loss of colour many of the stones appear to be jet, with rubies, but may be diamonds represented by silver leaf now oxidized. The shoulders of the gown extend beyond the image and the bodice bears the device of a standing hind facing left. On the reverse, an old inscription reads Q Elizabeth N Hilayard Strawberry Hill CSB'. The frame is clearly a pair with that of a miniature of Howard of Effingham (as by Hilliard, but possibly Lockey, F9522), which until at least 1917 was thought to be of Lord Hunsdon. The hind statant device, in the form shown, is not common in heraldry and suggests no obvious families to whom the sitter might belong. Sir Christopher Hatton, whose device was, (famously, a golden hind passant was from lesser country gentry and never married. If that were the connection, however, and if other dates fit, especially costume, it might conceivably be Lady Elizabeth Hatton, (nee Cecil, 1578-1646), granddaughter of William, Lord Burghley, by his eldest son Thomas, 1st Earl of Exeter. In the early 1590s she married Hatton's nephew and heir, the widowed Sir William Newton (d. 1597), who changed his name to Hatton on inheritance in 1591. They had a daughter, but on his death without male issue she remarried in 1598 to the eminent lawyer Sir Edward Coke by whom she had two more. None the less, by 1600 it was proving an unhappy union. She strongly objected, (including through legal suits), to Coke taking husbandly control of her great inherited wealth, and made a point of continuing to call herself Lady Elizabeth Hatton, not Coke. Thereafter they mainly lived apart to his death in 1633. When young she was accounted a beauty. She had inherited Hatton House in London in 1597 and from about 1604 was a lively and indomitable court figure, including as a masquer. Unfortunately no portrait of her is recorded for comparison. Isaac Oliver (circa 1565-1617), of Huguenot birth, was pupil and subsequent competitor of Nicholas Hilliard, and after him probably the second best known limner of miniatures of the late 16th and early 17th century, though in a somewhat different style.); © National Maritime Museum, Greenwich, London

Media ID 38515868

© © National Maritime Museum, Greenwich, London / Bridgeman Images

17th Century Fashion Beauty Care Ginger Hairdo Hairs Hairstyles Hairstyling Lace Fabric Make Up Makeup Opulence Red Hair Red Haired Red Head Redhaired Redheaded Watercolors Watercolour Paint Wealthy Hair Style Noble Nobles


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> Animals > Birds > Charadriiformes > Sandpipers > Ruff

> Animals > Mammals > Black Bear

> Animals > Mammals > Cricetidae > Golden Mouse

> Animals > Mammals > Muridae > House Mouse

> Architecture > Great Houses

> Arts > Artists > H > Nicholas Hilliard

> Arts > Artists > H > Thomas Hill

> Arts > Artists > I > William Ireland

> Arts > Artists > O > Elizabeth Olds

> Arts > Artists > O > Isaac Oliver

> Fine Art Finder > Artists > Isaac Oliver

> Fine Art Finder > Artists > Unknown Artist


EDITORS COMMENTS
This exquisite miniature portrait captures the essence of a mysterious lady from the early 17th century, painted by the talented artist Isaac Oliver. The delicate watercolor on vellum, enhanced with gum arabic and gilt accents, showcases a woman of high social status with captivating hazel eyes and light red hair styled in curls. Her elegant attire, featuring an intricately embroidered gown in black and silver floral patterns, is complemented by a lavish lace ruff and cap adorned with jewels. The sitter's enigmatic smile and slightly turned pose exude grace and sophistication, hinting at her refined upbringing and aristocratic background. The detailed craftsmanship of the oval black wooden mount adds to the overall allure of this enchanting portrait. While her identity remains unknown, speculations suggest she may be Lady Elizabeth Hatton, granddaughter of Lord Burghley, based on historical context and costume details. Despite her tumultuous personal life marked by legal disputes over inheritance rights with her second husband Sir Edward Coke, she was renowned for her beauty and vibrant presence at court masques. Isaac Oliver's skillful portrayal captures not just a likeness but also a glimpse into the intriguing world of Elizabethan nobility. This rare gem from the National Maritime Museum in London invites viewers to unravel the mysteries surrounding this enigmatic lady from centuries past.

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